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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end venues. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.